A Fashion Week without glamour and hysterical fans would not be worthy of its name. Thankfully, on Wednesday evening, Balmain brought the feverish atmosphere back to the Parisian runways. Held at the Palais de Chaillot, their fashion show required an impressive deployment of police officers, who were trying to contain an ecstatic crowd, while a metro exit had been closed.
Among the attending stars were Cher, Charlotte Rampling, and Lucy Hale, to name just a few, as well as a multitude of influencers. Like last season, the fashion house opted for a more intimate runway format, inviting guests to the cozy lounges of the Palais de Chaillot with the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. For the second time, they also organized a first show in the afternoon for their most important clients, with the evening show reserved for VIPs and the press.
Balmain has bid farewell to the spectacular shows of the past, such as the one organized exactly one year ago at the Jean Bouin stadium with 7,000 spectators. The “Balmain Army” and the conquering warrior-like silhouettes have also been left behind. The powerful style adorned with gold and molded bodies now makes way for a less flashy elegance, drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of the fashion house founded in 1945 by Pierre Balmain.
For the Spring-Summer 2024 collection, the renowned artistic director Olivier Rousteing is returning to the brand’s roots by delving into the archives, particularly the creations of Pierre Balmain from the late 1940s and 1950s, characterized by sculptural shapes and meticulous couture precision. The designer joyfully and colorfully reinterprets these codes, departing from the black and white palette of last season.
A retro spirit permeates this new collection for elegant ladies. The silhouette tightens on the sides and then flares out, whether in short, fitted outfits or slightly puffed ones, or in flowy silk dresses and long skirts, pleated or swirling. Sharp cuts blend with rounded and undulating forms, such as pleated skirts with basques or sculptural bustier dresses. From the archives, Olivier Rousteing brings back two iconic motifs of the brand: polka dots and roses. He has already had fun with polka dots in his previous winter collection and continues this season to offer elegant white sheath dresses with black polka dots, or vice versa, as well as blouses or pajama sets on the same theme. But it is with roses that he unleashes his creativity. Roses can be found everywhere. They overflow from bags or appear on silk or cotton dresses as prints. They are scattered on numerous pieces as fabric appliqués, such as a giant rose blossoming on the entire bodice or embroidered with sparkling stones. Made from various materials including leather, rubber, latex, porcelain, and even recycled plastic, roses adorn the garments, often in three-dimensional flower garlands, bordering a collar or climbing along the torso towards a shoulder. The designer also draws inspiration from the weaving of garden trellises for climbing roses, which he uses in woven bags or shoes.
The collection consisted of around fifty looks, nearly half compared to the brand’s usual behemoth shows. Balmain was victim of an unprecedented theft about ten days ago, with 50 pieces from their collection stolen. Nevertheless, the brand wanted to proceed with their fashion show.
In a note, Olivier Rousteing expresses his gratitude to his team, who had to double their efforts to make the show happen, as well as his friends and colleagues for their solidarity. He also thanks the police for their swift investigation work. They managed to recover the stolen van and some of the boxes containing the clothes, he states.
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