Published on February 29, 2024, Wednesday marked a day like no other at Paris Fashion Week dedicated to next winter’s women’s ready-to-wear. It was a day filled with highlights, such as the stunning show by the Japanese label Undercover, which received a lot of applause, the successful debut of Alessandro Vigilante, the new creative director of Rochas, the collection by Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen, which expands with its first leather pieces, and the impactful collection by Swedish label Acne Studios.
On this third day of women’s shows, Undercover made a big impression with a particularly captivating collection for the fall-winter 2024/25 season. Designer Jun Takahashi created the perfect wardrobe for today’s multi-active woman with “all-in-one” clothing and also gave us a lesson in sewing. He reinvented a new lexicon by completely reworking the theme of patchwork and hybrid garments, deconstructing and reconstructing them patiently like a puzzle. Takahashi creates modern silhouettes from garment fragments, mostly classics from the women’s wardrobe, so well fused that it goes unnoticed.
Elsewhere, a banker’s pants are layered over a delicate wool jumpsuit. A large cardigan gracefully blends with a faux fur dress, just as a gray sweatshirt is layered over. The polo shirt layered over a turtleneck adorns a sequined or fringed skirt. These fringes and garlands extend from a coat or pant leg as they gradually sparkle in copper or gold tones, much like these layered fabrics in some looks.
What’s interesting is how different functions are seamlessly integrated into a single garment, creating a completely new and unique daily wardrobe. Accessories range from small leather bags embellished with metal spikes to transparent tulle bags of all sizes to compartmentalize daily items. Instead of separating the market shopping, baguette, water bottle, wine bottle, gym mat, etc.
For his debut at Rochas, Alessandro Vigilante signed a delicate collection that reconnects with the origins of the house. The Rochas woman likes to mix genres, combining black lace stockings under a futuristic wool skirt-top suit with padded shoulders or a gray flannel men’s jacket superimposed over a skirt embroidered with twisted PVC fringe.
Among the most spectacular pieces, a silver strapless dress made of aluminum foil cut into small flowers caught the eye, as well as a beige trench coat with a myriad of perforated flowers revealing their silver lining.
Acne Studios unveiled a powerful and energetic collection on Thursday evening. In a white setting, giant poufs and armchairs made of rubber tire pieces by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo, the models displayed themselves in ultra-short leather or denim outfits, wearing futuristic glasses and chrome metal jewelry. The Acne woman dons pencil dresses or light whalebone dresses in fine jersey, elegant silk shirts with heightened collars, matching trousers.
The high-necked bodysuit is one of the collection’s standout pieces, completely exposed in the back by a long zipper. Like the leather pieces, such as coats with the appearance of tailored suits, sculpted with rounded and rigid shapes, or weathered leather sets, it’s clear Acne Studios is boldly redefining the modern woman’s wardrobe.
