Restaurant review: we tried Ayla in Lyon and Dogma in Paris

Published on October 27, 2023 at 6:03 am

In Lyon, “Ayla” reinvents mezzes

Just steps away from the Halles Paul Bocuse, Corinne Bec and Najem Atmeh, a young Franco-Lebanese couple trained at top restaurants (Four Seasons in Beirut for him and L’Officine in Lyon, La Réserve in Nice for her) and winners of the Gault & Millau Young Talents Grant, have been reinventing mezzes since the end of May. Grape leaves are turned into tempura-style chips with praline olive labneh, the shellfish plate combines tabbouleh, razor clams and almonds, and figs are paired with cheese in a colorful and flavorful salad. For a truly decadent dessert, order the exceptional atayef pancakes. I. L.

How much: €27 for a three-course lunch menu. €40 per person for the mezzes experience in the evening.

Where: 1, place de l’Europe, 69006 Lyon. Tel: 04 27 78 40 74.

In Paris, the fried chicken from “Dogma”

Dogma is the place to go for street food and fried chicken enthusiasts. And it can be enjoyed in all its forms: as tenders, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, or as a burger (three options including a vegetarian one made with tofu). Opt for the classic OG, and it’s a success. The tasting begins with a toasted brioche bun, inside of which you’ll find fried free-range chicken, marinated cabbage and pickles for a delicious mix of textures. As a delicious accompaniment, there are onion rings to enjoy without moderation. H. S.

How much: €13 for a burger, €11 for tenders, €2-5 for sides.

Where: 10, rue des Petites-Ecuries, 75010 Paris.

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