A food critic, sharp but nonetheless mischievous by nature, once titled an article: “Japanese cuisine is Nippon, neither bad nor good.” He described the typical Japanese restaurants in Paris and their monolithic menu of broth, white cabbage salad, skewers, or sushi. However, in our beloved, gastronomically diverse capital, there exists another type of Japanese cuisine – perfectionist and creative, prepared by renowned chefs like Kay Kobayashi of the three Michelin-starred restaurant Key. In their dishes, there is a harmonious blend of French and Japanese influences.
While Kobayashi may have achieved the coveted three Michelin stars, many chefs have paved the way before him. As early as the 1970s and 1980s, Japanese chefs began settling in Paris, such as Tateru Yoshino, who is considered the most French of Japanese chefs. Whether in Osaka or Paris, Yoshino continues the fusion of cuisine between the two countries, and conversely, French chefs are increasingly drawing inspiration from Japanese culinary traditions. The culinary bond between the two peoples, seen in their shared love for knives and forks, goes far back. In 1971, in a rare occurrence, the Emperor of Japan visited Paris on an official visit hosted by President Pompidou. Hirohito came to support his compatriots, while enjoying the excellence of French cuisine.
In Japan, apprentices spend three years observing the cutting techniques for fish, vegetables, and meat in the kitchen, before they are even allowed to touch a knife. This detail speaks volumes about the technical skills of future Japanese chefs. To whet your appetite, consider the recipe for the lacquered pigeon by Kay Kobayashi, cooked in a steamed broth, torch-grilled, lacquered with a sauce of miso, sesame, sour cream, and sake, accompanied by parsnips and salsify simply sautéed in butter. Are we in Tokyo, Kyoto, or Osaka? No, we are in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, savoring Kobayashi’s authentic globetrotting pigeon dish.
