Parisian Brasseries: A Glimpse into an Era
Gilles Picq’s recently released book “Les brasseries parisiennes de l’avant-siècle (1870-1914)” from L’Échappée publishing has brought to light the once thriving Parisian brasseries, where painters, writers, journalists, musicians, and politicians used to congregate in their headquarters. These were bustling establishments where bartenders, dishwashers, hunters, and “dames aux lavabos” kept the business running.
These early 1870-1914 Parisian brasseries, numbering around 3,000, were a diverse collection of bars, bouillons, estaminets, crémeries, brasseries, dance halls, concert cafés, taverns, bars, inns, and cabarets. This was also the time when beer, brought in by the Germans, began to make its mark in Paris, alongside the traditional wine. Notable figures like Rimbaud, Verlaine, Wilde, Toulouse-Lautrec, Courbet, and Jules Vallès frequented these establishments, making them literary and artistic hubs.
However, the history of these iconic venues also had its dark moments, including knife fights, pervasive prostitution, and even an occasional explosion. The establishments in the 1st arrondissement, near the Palais-Royal and Les Halles, hosted a multitude of restaurants, brasseries, and inns, serving various clienteles. Noteworthy brasseries like La Mère Moreaux and Zimmerman still stand out as iconic parts of Parisian history.
Zimmer, a café-restaurant at the Châtelet theatre, drew in the likes of Jules Verne, Emile Zola, and Sarah Bernhardt, along with the poets of the Argonauts, before being taken over by the Zimmer society in 1899. A rich and diverse array of establishments, including Calisaya, Le Helder, Hill’s Tavern, Julien, and Noel-Peter’s, populated the 2nd arrondissement, accompanied by its famous journalists and newspaper offices.
The 3rd arrondissement housed a handful of renowned establishments, including the oldest house of Paris on 51, rue de Montmorency, which served as an inn and later as the tavern Nicolas Flamel. In the 5th and 6th arrondissements, the Quartier Latin and Saint-Germain-des-Prés respectively, were synonymous with brasseries, bals, and cabarets where students, professors, and bourgeois alike would mingle in their respective hangout spots.
As Paris continues to evolve, these remnants of the 1870-1914 era continue to enchant a new generation with their history and allure. A fascinating mix of writerly lore and social history, these Parisian brasseries still inspire curiosity and admiration for their rich and layered past.
