Masahide Ikuta’s sea bream ceviche, stracciatella, pomelo, and sea asparagus, is a beautiful and colorful dish. It is designed by a Japanese chef, Masahide Ikuta, who previously worked at Bruno Verjus.
In the heart of Paris, near the Pompidou Center, there are many places to eat at night. This area is very crowded, festive, and touristy. However, not all places are of good quality. Since June, the restaurant Donna has changed this perception. Who would have thought that a thirtysomething finance guy, Marc Le Berre, and a Japanese chef, Masahide Ikuta, would make us want to come here and meet friends after visiting the nearby Maison de la poésie or watching a movie at MK2 Beaubourg.
This small place is named after Donna Summer, and thankfully, the music is not overwhelming. Inside, “Masa” is in action behind the horseshoe counter. He has everything at his disposal, from woks and pots, sauces and condiments, to beautiful aged beef and a harvest of autumn mushrooms for frying. Even the dessert, a beautiful lemon tart, is tempting.
The chef is active and composed as he prepares perfect plates. Trained in Kobe and then in Paris at L’Ami Jean, Agapé, and finally at Bruno Verjus’ Michelin-starred restaurant, Table, he is a master of his craft. On the other hand, Marc Le Berre discreetly interacts with every guest. He takes pride in the absence of a wine list and prefers to suggest a wine based on each dish.
The sea bream ceviche with stracciatella, pomelo, and sea asparagus appears. It is beautiful and colorful. The taste of yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit, is immediately present. With each bite, you can taste the radish and a few orange trout eggs. The sea bream, which arrived from Shizuoka, Japan, yesterday, is a fatty fish with a pleasant taste. It is not marinated like a typical ceviche, but rather reminiscent of sashimi. The acidity is wonderfully balanced, and the pomelo pieces are small to complement the flavor of the fish.
On a creamy and stringy bed of stracciatella, the balance of ingredients never competes with the raw sea bream’s taste. According to Marc Le Berre, Masa learned this from Bruno Verjus. It’s not about creating new flavors through assembly, but a meticulous approach where each ingredient expresses its taste. The sea asparagus adds a hint of iodine, complementing the rich and firm texture of the sea bream, which is usually devoured voraciously in the high seas but this time savored in Paris.
Donna, located at 157 Rue Saint-Martin, Paris 3rd arrondissement, is open in the evenings from Wednesday to Sunday. The sea bream ceviche with stracciatella, pomelo, and sea asparagus costs 26 €.
