Between Jean-Paul Gaultier and cinema, it’s a great love story. It is therefore quite natural that the Cinémathèque française asked the famous couturier to act as the curators of his first retrospective devoted to the enchanted links between fashion and cinema. The new juror of “Dance with the stars” has often repeated it: it is thanks to the 7th art that he found his vocation, and more precisely thanks to a film.
“When I saw Falbalas, I must have been 12 or 13 years old and there, I knew that I wanted to do this job”, confides Jean-Paul Gaultier who has chosen to open the exhibition by recreating a boudoir in a round room, pink and hung with tulle, in homage to the film by Jacques Becker with Micheline Presle, dating from 1945. For the record, c he director Tonie Marshall, daughter of Micheline Presle who, before her death, suggested the name of Jean-Paul Gaultier to the Cinémathèque.
From “Superman” tights to “Queen Margot” dress
Conceived as a subjective journey into the history of cinema, the CinéMode exhibition shows the evolution of roles and major female and male archetypes. Or how the woman became virilized while the man became feminized. We can see the bloody dress of Isabelle Adjani in Queen Margot, the tights of Superman, the tuxedo of Marlène Dietrich in Morocco or the total cowboy look of John Wayne that Jean-Paul Gaultier says he hates, preferring the sensuality of a Marlon Brando. Her cult outfit in The Wild Team, with the famous leather Perfecto is also on display.
We also discover the costumes created by Jean-Paul Gaultier for Pedro Almodóvar with whom he has a faithful relationship (Kika, Bad Education and The Skin I Live In), Peter Greenaway (The cook, the thief, his wife and her lover), Caro and Jeunet (City of lost children) or The fifth Element. This feature film by Luc Besson even earned him a César nomination in the Best Costumes category.
“For me, fashion was above all doing a show. If it hadn’t been for the show, maybe I wouldn’t have done fashion. I would have made theatrical costumes or movie costumes “, admits the couturier. With this exhibition, the circle has come full circle.
CinéMode, by Jean-Paul Gaultier until January 16, 2022 at the Cinémathèque française, 51 Rue de Bercy, 75012 Paris.
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